Should I use a retinol cream on my skin?

Retinol. Acids. Peptides. Skincare can leave you feeling like you need a chemistry degree, and a bigger bathroom shelf. But what do these ingredients actually do, and does your skin need everything you’re being told to put on it?

Sometimes, choosing what goes on your skin needs extra thought, particularly during pregnancy, when trying for a baby or when building a routine for teenage skin.

Before you add another must-have to your basket, let’s explore what deserves a place in your routine, what suits different skin needs, and what nourishing plant oils and butters have to offer.

First, what are they for?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A used to improve the appearance of fine lines and uneven pigmentation. It belongs to the retinoid family, which also includes prescription acne treatments. It can be useful, but can cause dryness and irritation.[1]

Exfoliating acids, such as glycolic and salicylic acid, help remove dead skin cells. Salicylic acid is also used in acne care. Strength, frequency and the rest of your routine all matter.[2][6]

Peptides are short chains of amino acids. Some are used in formulas aimed at improving firmness and the appearance of fine lines. Results depend on the peptide and the finished formula. They’re an option, rather than a compulsory step.[3]

Different skin.
Different considerations.

Pregnant or trying for a baby? Avoid retinol and other retinoids. That doesn’t mean every acid is off the table: the ingredient, strength and use matter. A pharmacist, GP or midwife can help you check your routine and any treatments.[4][5]

Choosing skincare for a teenager? Retinol for anti-ageing isn’t something young skin needs. A simple, gentle routine makes more sense, and fragrance-free products with plant ingredients such as jojoba oil or shea butter can help soften dry-feeling skin and retain moisture. Choose a formula suited to their age and skin, especially if they’re prone to breakouts. Gentle cleansing, moisturising and daily sun protection are the foundations. Acne may need its own treatment, sometimes including a prescribed retinoid, with advice from a pharmacist or GP.[6][12][11][17]

Skin feeling sore or irritated? Avoid adding more retinol or exfoliating acids while skin is irritated. If a prescribed treatment is causing problems, ask your pharmacist or prescriber how to adjust it. A simple, fragrance-free moisturising formula, including one made with suitable plant oils or butters, can help reduce moisture loss and leave dry skin feeling more comfortable. Keep the routine gentle, and seek advice if irritation persists.[2][10][11]

Could fragrance be part of the problem? The scent in a skincare product can irritate sensitive skin or trigger an allergic reaction in some people. Choosing fragrance-free skincare is a simple way to avoid that potential trigger and take a gentler approach to everyday care.[6]

Before the serum shelf,
there were plant oils and butters.

Long before skincare had a launch calendar, people were keeping oils and ointments in carefully made jars. The Metropolitan Museum of Art holds an Egyptian ointment jar dating to around 1878–1749 BC. These preparations mattered enough to accompany people into the afterlife.[7]

Shea has its own remarkable history. Archaeologists in Burkina Faso found evidence of shea-nut processing dating back to at least AD 100. That’s almost two thousand years of people valuing this resource, long before it appeared on a modern beauty label.[8]

Those stories make a lovely starting point. Their place in skincare today also has a practical explanation: plant oils and butters can soften and smooth skin, and some help reduce moisture loss.[9]

Meet the unsung heroes
of the plant world.

They might not get the same airtime as retinol, but plant oils, butters and waxes have plenty to offer. Let’s look at what they are, where they come from and what they can do for your skin.

Shea butter: richness from the African shea tree. Made from its nuts, this butter is rich in fatty acids that help soften skin and reduce moisture loss. Think smoother-feeling lips and a little comfort for dry hands and rough patches.[11]

Jojoba oil: the liquid wax with a familiar feel. Extracted from the seeds of the jojoba shrub, it has a composition similar to the skin’s own sebum. It helps hold on to moisture and leaves skin feeling soft and supple.[12]

Castor oil: a little richness goes a long way. Derived from the seeds of the castor plant, this thick oil helps soften skin and reduce moisture loss. Its conditioning feel makes it particularly useful in lip care.[13]

Olive-derived squalane: lightweight softness. Made by stabilising squalene sourced from olives, this silky ingredient helps smooth skin and retain moisture. A useful option when you want softness without the richness of another butter.[14]

Candelilla wax: the plant that gives a balm its shape. Sourced from the candelilla plant, this vegan wax brings structure and a smooth glide to balms and lip care, while also helping soften skin.[15]

Plant-derived vitamin E: a quiet supporting role. An antioxidant sourced from vegetable oils, it helps condition skin and protects the oils in a formula from oxidation. A small addition with a useful job.[16]

Plant power.
Your winter essentials.

So, does your skin need retinol? It can be a useful choice if you’re looking to improve the appearance of fine lines or uneven pigmentation. But it should be avoided during pregnancy and when trying for a baby, and can be too irritating for some skin. Young skin doesn’t need it for anti-ageing, either.[1][4][6]

And plant ingredients? They have their own superpowers: softening, smoothing and helping skin hold on to moisture. If it’s everyday nourishment and comfort you’re after, oils and butters have plenty to bring to your routine. They offer moisturising care, rather than the same targeted effects as retinol.[9]

For skin that feels nourished, with moisture locked in this winter. Meet Buff Chemistry’s vegan-friendly, plant-based balms and oils, designed to nourish skin and help protect it from moisture loss. A few drops of Facial Oil for soft, supple-feeling skin. Lip Butter for lips that need a little extra care. Daily Multi Balm for rich, versatile nourishment across the body.

Cold days, central heating and dry-feeling skin? Make room for a little everyday comfort. Our fragrance-free formulas bring together purposeful plant ingredients for skin you’ll want to keep touching: soft, smooth and beautifully cared for.

Find your winter essentials. Nothing unnecessary.